From Cleveland to Albania: Jim O’Donnell’s story

Albania might not be on your travel radar, but it should be. Wedged between Greece and Montenegro, this small Balkan nation is full of history, dramatic landscapes, and some of the friendliest people in Europe. To bring it to life, I spoke with my friend and former co-worker Dr. James O’Donnell — a historian, businessman, and longtime traveler who spent years living and working in Albania.

Jim is also a fellow Clevelander — so for many of you reading in Ohio, this one’s close to home.

Reading time: 3 minutes 5 seconds

🎉 TWU Turns One!

This month marks the 1 year anniversary of The World Unfolding. What started as a small experiment has grown into a community of 504+ readers in 18 countries.

Over the past year we have explored:

• Coffee shops in Carmel

• Golf in Australia

• Hidden gems in Switzerland and Italy

• And now the beaches and bunkers of Albania

I am grateful for every single reader who has joined me on this journey. Here is to another year of seeing more of the world together. What else do you want me to write about?

Who is Jim O’Donnell?

Jim earned his Ph.D. in Modern East European History from the University of Colorado, Boulder, where he focused on Enver Hoxha’s Communist dictatorship in Albania (1945–1985). His dissertation was published by Columbia University Press.

Beyond academics, Jim spent years in Albania running import-export businesses and traveling throughout the Balkans. Today, he lives back in the U.S., where he’s founded successful companies in insurance and collections. He combines the rare perspective of a scholar, entrepreneur, and traveler who has truly lived Albania.

And, like many of you, he’s a proud Ohioan.

History & Background

Q: For readers who know almost nothing about Albania, what’s one or two key facts about its history that would help them understand the country today?

Jim: Albania is one of Europe’s oldest nations, home to the Illyrians. But in the 20th century, it became known as the “North Korea of Europe.” From 1945 to 1991, Communist leader Enver Hoxha closed the country to outsiders. His paranoia left behind thousands of concrete bunkers across the countryside, which are still visible today.

It’s also a country of variety: the Dinaric Alps in the north, pristine beaches along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, and Lake Ohrid in the east. History buffs will find stretches of the Roman Via Egnatia road, plus UNESCO World Heritage sites like Apollonia and Butrint.

Religion is another unique element. Albania is majority Muslim (about 70%), with Orthodox Christians and Catholics making up the rest. Unlike many countries where faiths divide people, in Albania they coexist peacefully. And here’s one more surprise: Albanians love America and Americans.

How to Get There

Q: If someone wanted to go from the U.S., what’s the best way to fly there?

Jim: There are no direct flights to Tirana, the capital. The best connections are:

• Lufthansa (through Frankfurt or Munich)

• Austrian Airlines (through Vienna)

• British Airways (through London)

• Turkish Airlines (through Istanbul)

Turkish Airlines often comes out ahead because the ticket usually includes two free checked bags. Plus, they offer a special layover program in Istanbul — free sightseeing tours and sometimes even free hotel stays. It’s a great bonus, since Istanbul itself straddles two continents.

👉 Did you know? On one trip, Jim got to explore both Europe and Asia in a single afternoon — all within Istanbul.

Affordability

Q: What’s the cost of living like for a traveler?

Jim: Albania is one of the most affordable countries in Europe. Mid-range hotels run $25–75 per night. Restaurant dinners often cost just $7–15. Compared to Italy or Greece, Albania is a wallet-friendly alternative with just as much charm.

Safety

Q: How safe does it feel for visitors?

Jim: Today, Albania is very safe and welcoming. In the past, foreigners avoided some of the remote northern regions, but that’s no longer the case. Tourism has grown, and you can travel freely without worry. Of course, use the same everyday common sense you would anywhere.

Currency & EU Status

Q: Do they use the euro, and are they part of the European Union?

Jim: The currency is the Albanian lek, named after a national hero, Lek Dukagjini. Albania is not in the EU, so the euro isn’t used. U.S. dollars are the second most accepted currency. As of August 2025, the exchange rate is roughly 83 lek to $1.

Food & Drink

Q: What’s one food or drink travelers need to try?

Jim: Start with raki, a grape brandy around 45% ABV. It’s always offered as a sign of hospitality.

Foods to try include:

• Qofta (Balkan-style meatballs, often beef or lamb)

• Burek (flaky savory pie with fillings like spinach + feta or minced meat + onion)

• Seafood (shrimp, calamari, octopus — incredibly fresh and affordable)

• Lake specialties (carp near Shkodra, grilled trout near Pogradec)

For dessert, there’s baklava, but also kadaif — shredded wheat with honey and walnuts, a Turkish-influenced favorite.

One Week in Albania

Q: If a reader had one week in Albania, what’s the first thing you’d tell them to do?

Jim:

• Summer travelers: head to the beaches. Durres is only an hour from Tirana, but the southern coast near Sarandë, Vlorë, and Dhermi has some of the most beautiful and pristine beaches in Europe.

• History and culture: explore Cold War museums in Tirana like Bunk’Art 1 & 2 (inside nuclear bunkers) and the House of Leaves (about the secret police).

• Heroes and heritage: in Krujë, see the Skanderbeg Museum, dedicated to Albania’s national hero who resisted the Ottomans for 25 years.

• Ancient ruins: visit Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

• Unique towns: wander Berat, where houses climb the mountainside, and see its National Iconographic Museum.

📸 Photos

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Until next Thursday,
Jeff